Olhao
So, what can I say about Olhao…? Or rather, Olhão da Restauração to give it its formal title!
Mmm…
Well, I could start with the following:
“It’s dirty, it’s boring, there’s nothing to do, the food is all the same, it smells…”
Doesn’t sound good, does it?
These are all accusations I’ve heard thrown at Olhao over the years; I have to say, by people who know no better.
Is there a grain of truth in them? Maybe.
But I can also defend Olhao against each and every one of them!
“It’s dirty!”
Well, I think it certainly used to be, and there is a sense of dereliction in some areas, with clapped out houses standing next to newly renovated buildings. But that’s half the charm!
And anyway, nowadays, there is a new gloss to Olhao:
Across the town, you can see building work taking place.
On the waterfront, a new project is underway to modernise the area.
There are public bins on many corners.
Teams of people can be found sweeping the streets daily.
Rubbish is collected every night and recycled – even from my front doorstep.
Dirty? No, I don’t think so.
“It’s boring, there’s nothing to do!”
Well, if you choose to sit and do nothing, that’s entirely up to you. I do it quite often! It’s an entirely under-rated activity as far as I’m concerned! And Olhao is perfect for it.
Sit at a bar or Pastelaria and watch the World go by. Go down to the waterfront and find yourself a bench in one of the two beautiful gardens there – the Jardim Patrão Joaquim Lopes and the Jardim Pescador Olhanense. Watch old men sitting in the shade socialising, children playing, boats gliding past. Just there and simply enjoy it…
But if by some chance, you do want to do something more energetic, then Olhao is packed with options:
Hire a bike
Go for a walk
Wander around the old town and admire the cubist architecture
Visit the church (Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Rosário – our lady of the rosary) and the Museum
Wander around the markets
Take a ferry to the islands (where you’ll find some of the best beaches in Europe)
Take a boat to see wild dolphins out at sea
Go on a fishing trip, or go birdwatching (the Ria Formosa offers some of the best wetlands for birds you’ll find anywhere)
Go on a Tuk Tuk ride
Swim with seahorses
Head inland and find yourself some Roman ruins…
I could go on, but there’s really not much point.
If you find Olhao boring, the problem lies with you, not the town!
“The food is all the same!”
Well, I have to admit, the restaurants in Olhao do serve up a lot of fish, but it’s not really surprising is it?
Olhao is a fishing port. For years, its main industry has been fishing and canning fish.
But what this does mean is that that the local restaurants (and you the customer) are lucky enough to have an unparalleled supply of truly fresh ingredients. Even if you find that the food is all the same, the quality should more than make up for it.
Just go and have a look in the Mercado (the market) on the waterfront – you’ll see the quality right there in front of you.
But there are also plenty of other options available in Olhao: Italian, Japanese, Indian, Mexican, French….
These restaurants are not as numerous as the fish restaurants obviously, but just have a wander around the streets and you’ll stumble across them.
See our article on the 6 best restaurants in Olhao.
“It smells!”
When I first started coming to Olhao, I thought the same thing. There was a certain “Odeur d’Olhao” – at least, that’s what a friend of mine called it!
I don’t think that the local facilities were up to dealing with waste-water, but that has all changed.
As the Algarve Daily News commented back in 2018:
“New Faro-Olhão sewage treatment plant to end infamous ‘Olhão Stink’”
And so it does. At least I haven’t smelt anything recently, and long may that continue!
***
I’ll admit that Olhao can be seen as a ‘gritty’ town.
It’s not your average tourist destination. It’s a fishing port.
People here work for a living. Tourism certainly isn’t the only industry, and not the main one either.
But, there’s a slightly hippy feel to it all too. It seems to have attracted artists from all over, enticed by the idiosyncratic architecture, the narrow twisting alleyways running between the houses, the blue skies, the 300 sunny days a year, the beautiful beaches, the people…
Ah yes, the people…
If you wander around, you’ll see fishermen drinking at the bars along the Avenida 5 de Outubro on the waterfront, sitting alongside well-dressed businessmen, local families, foreigners who’ve been attracted to the area to live, tourists.
It’s an eclectic mix.
You’ll see people chatting, arguing, gesticulating, smiling…
You’ll see people rushing, hoping to catch the next ferry out to one of the islands – both locals and tourists.
You’ll see the occasional beggar doing his rounds.
As far as I’m concerned, this all just adds to the raw feel of this working town.
If you want to see an authentic fishing town, with access to some of the best beaches and seafood in Europe, then Olhao is probably the place for you.
So maybe, well hopefully, I’ve now discounted any concerns you may have had about Olhao. Why not come and see for yourself?
If you want to know more, feel free to read on.
Map of Olhao
The 9 Best Things to Do in Olhao
So what are the 9 best things to do in Olhao?
Well, you can eat, you can drink, you can look at churches and Moorish architecture, or you can check out the graffiti – there are many options.
But all these things I cover elsewhere in this blog: my favourite places to eat in Olhao, my favourite places to drink, the best things to see…
And Olhao isn’t really about doing stuff. It’s more about living, enjoying the atmosphere, enjoying the food.
So here I’m going to tell you about things you can do FROM Olhao, with Olhao as your base…
The 8 Best Things to See in Olhao
So what are the best things to see in Olhao?
Well for a small fishing port, there is a fair amount just waiting to be found!
If you’re looking for a bit of culture or something interesting, it’s never far away in Olhao.
There are churches and a museum. There’s a conservatory of music. There’s an auditorium. In Olhao, various events are put on all the time – music, poetry, film. There’s Street Art, there are Street performers, there are all sorts of options.
Just have a look around – it will be worth it.
My 6 Favourite Places to Eat in Olhao
So where is the best place to eat in Olhao?
Now that’s a hard one, but well, blimey! You won’t have to look far!
Every other establishment is a bar/café/restaurant.
So how do you know where to go for food?
Do you base it on cost? On taste? Do you base it on location?
Who knows!
Just wander around and enjoy the fact that you can eat at a different establishment every night – for weeks, if not months!
What I will say though is that many of the restaurants base their menus around seafood.
Is that a bad thing?
No! Not at all! The quality of the fish and seafood here is fantastic.
Only today I watched a chef walking along the street with a huge crab in each hand – both of which were covered in seaweed and dripping saltwater… Fresh or what?!
But there are other options too. You just need to wander around and find them: Indian, Mexican, Japanese… I’ve enjoyed every meal out that I’ve had here.
I’ll be honest. It’s not ‘Michelin Star’ standard. But for good, down to earth, honest food, made with some of the best, most fresh ingredients… you can’t beat it.
My 7 Favourite Places to Drink in Olhao
If you’re looking for a bar in Olhao, you won’t have to go far either.
Go down to the Mercado Municipale: the market can be found inside the two large, red brick buildings that sit on the waterfront, but there are numerous bars around the outside – Zona, Le Panorama, Leme…
Cross the road and wander along the front in either direction and you’ll find more bars – Catita & Companhia, No Clue, Sete Estrelas, Olhos Na Ria…
Then head up through the pedestrianized area towards the Avenida da Republica, and you’ll find yet more bars – Saaz Bar, Café Chocolate, República do Se7e…
Around the market, the bars are a little more expensive, but everything is relative in Olhao!
Have a walk around and I’m sure you’ll find somewhere to satisfy your needs!
Travelling to and from Faro Airport
So, how to get to Olhao?
I think that you’ll find that it’s quick and easy! Depending on which mode of transport you use…
Click here for more information.
Local Facilities
Trains
Olhao has a single train station.
You can find it at the top of the Avenue da Republica. Turn left just before the underpass, and you’ll see it on the right-hand side.
It’s probably a 15 minute walk from the waterfront.
The train line itself runs all the way along the Algarve, but if we stick to the Eastern Algarve, it runs from Faro in the west to Vila Real de Santo Antonio in the east.
A timetable and the cost of catching the train to each station in the Eastern Algarve can be found here.
Tickets are cheap anyway, but children (4-12) are half price, as are adults over 65 (ID required).
You can purchase your tickets at the station’s ticket office, or on the train, where the guard will come round to collect your money. It’s cash only on the train and it’s good to have the right money – certainly no big notes.
Estação De Comboios De Olhão
Opening hours: 6am–8pm
Address: R. do Caminho de Ferro 2, 8700-425 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 707 210 220
website: Comboios de Portugal
Ferries and Water Taxis
In Olhao, the ferries and water taxis can be found near the Mercado (market). If you stand by the market buildings, face the sea and look to your left. You’ll see the jetty maybe 400m away.
At the beginning of the jetty, you’ll see a ticket office with two windows. The left-hand window is for buying tickets for the ferry to Armona, and the right-hand window for the ferry to Culatra/Farol.
The ticket offices open 30 minutes before departure. Prices and departure times can be found here.
In summer, the queues can be long, so don’t leave it too late. On one occasion, I couldn’t even get on the ferry since it was too full! Having said that, they have a spare ferry, so if you are waiting for the last ferry back from one of the islands, and there are too many people waiting for the scheduled ferry, they will send another. You won’t be left behind!
Another point to note is that animals can’t be taken on the ferries. The only exceptions are ‘guide’ dogs and animals in ‘carry’ cages.
If you want to take a water taxi to one of the islands (obviously more expensive!), walk past the ferry ticket office, along the jetty to the last pontoon on the right-hand side. The water taxis will be lined up waiting for you.
If you miss the last ferry back from the islands, a water taxi will be your only option.
Water taxi prices can be found here.
Parking
There is plenty of free parking in Olhao, although along the waterfront by the Mercado, as well as along the Avenida da Republica, you will need to pay (there are pay points distributed along these stretches of road).
But if you don’t mind walking 200/300m, then you will find plenty of free parking spaces at each end of the waterfront:
a) drive past the Ferry jetty heading east, right to the end and you’ll see a parking area ahead of you that stretches along the side of the port.
b) head west from the market buildings and just before the Real Marina Hotel and Spa, you’ll see a large open space. In winter, this area will be inundated with campervans.
Even so, in summer, parking spaces can be hard to find. This year, the local authorities did a great job of providing extra (free!) parking spaces in a large building on the Avenue dos Operarios Conserveiros at the top of the port area. It closes for the off-season, but hopefully will be available again next year.
Accommodation
There is plenty of accommodation to be found in Olhao: apartments, houses, rooms… whatever your budget, you’ll find something!
As a starter, just look on Airbnb or booking.com. These two sites will provide you with the most comprehensive listings.
From a personal point of view, one property that I’ve stayed in myself a couple of times is Casa Lysithea, a one-bedroomed house. It’s presented really nicely, and in a quiet area, probably 5 minutes from the Mercado. It doesn’t seem much from the outside, but a nice surprise once you go through the front door – and it’s not expensive.
There are many such properties in Olhao: the town is up and coming with many of the houses of the old town being renovated to a high standard and posted as holiday rentals.
As for hotels? Surprisingly, there isn’t a huge number. But we’ve listed what we deem to be good options, depending on your budget:
Budget
Stork Hostel is well thought of apparently. It’s situated just behind the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Soledade (sometimes called the Church of the Dead by the Olhanense, because it is used as a funeral chapel!). The hostel presumably gets its name from the Storks that nest on the roof of this church!
Nest door is Café Chocolate, inexpensive and welcoming, run by Jorge.
Stork Hostel has a score of 9.2 on booking.com, and offers double rooms and a male-only dormitory.
Midrange
Hotel Cidade de Olhão can be found at Rua General Humberto Delgado, 33, just up from the Bus Station.
A friend of mine books family in here whenever they come to Olhao. The hotel has a pool and a sun terrace, the rooms have air-con and flat-screen TVs, and some have balconies.
They’re clean and modern. The hotel also offers family rooms with a kitchenette.
It’s a good option.
Superior
Situated on the waterfront opposite the marina, the Real Marina Hotel and Spa is the main hotel in Olhao. I haven’t stayed there, but I have stayed in the associated Real Marina Residence, (a number of apartments, nicely furnished, very clean and extremely spacious, with a pool on the roof of each block).
The hotel itself is a 5-star hotel offering luxury rooms with a balcony, indoor and outdoor pools with views over the Ria Formosa, and two restaurants and two bars.
The hotel also has a spa with ten treatment rooms, a hot tub, a sauna, and a Turkish bath, as well as a gym.
If you like a bit of luxury, then this is the place!
Campsite
The Campsite in Olhao is a little bit out of town, but a great place to stay for nature lovers. It’s a ten-hectare site shaded by pine trees, sat next to the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
It’s a relaxing place with all the expected facilities.
Camping Olhao
Opening hours: 8am-8pm daily
Address: Pinheiros de Marim, 8700-225 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 700 300
Mercado Municipal (Fresh Food Market)
Down on the waterfront, you’ll find the Mercado, which comprises two buildings.
As you stand with your back to the sea, the one on the right is for fresh fruit and veg and meat. The one on the left is for fish.
For more details, see 9 best things to do in Olhao
Street Markets
Saturday morning things really come to life down by the Mercado.
Locals put up stalls to sell their produce (honey, vegetables, beans, plants, birds, clothes… you name it).
It gets crowded, and parking becomes difficult, but it’s well worth a wander round.
Supermarkets
There are plenty of Supermarkets around Olhao.
The easiest to find is probably Pingo Doce. If you come off the ferry jetty, walk straight ahead, cross the road, walk about 150m to a wide-open space with a café in the middle and turn left. There you’ll find Pingo Doce.
Pingo Doce
Opening hours: 8am-9pm daily, but times may differ on public holidays
Address: R. Manuel Tomé Viegas Vaz 4, 8700-472 Faro, Portugal
Phone +351 289 700 490
Website: Pingo Doce
Having said that, because of its central location, the queues at the cash desk are often quite long, so I tend to go elsewhere. Other options include (nearest to the ferries first):
Continente Bom Dia Olhão
Opening hours: 8:30am-9pm daily, but times may differ on public holidays
Address: R. Patrão Joaquim Casaca 2, 8700-507 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 071 910
Website: Continente
Intermarché
Opening hours: 8:30am-9pm daily, but times may differ on public holidays
Address: Lugar do Marim lote 2 – Quelfes, 8700-221 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 700 290
Website: Intermarche
Algartalhos
Opening hours: 10am-9pm daily, but times may differ on public holidays
Address: R. Dr. Estevão de Vasconcelos 1, 8700-469 Olhão, Portugal
Pingo Doce
Opening hours: 8am-9pm daily, but times may differ on public holidays
Address: N125 C 8700-146 Olhão
Phone: +351 289 710 300
Website: Pingo Doce
Aldi
Opening hours: 9am-9pm daily, but times may differ on public holidays
Address: N125 A,Olhão, N125 A, 8700-203 Olhão, Portugal
Website: Aldi
Lidl
Opening hours: 8:30am-10pm daily, but times may differ on public holidays
Address: N125 Pechão – Belmonte Baixo, 8700-173 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 800 025 025
Website: Lidl
There are plenty of other supermarkets, too numerous to mention, but small supermarkets are virtually everywhere in Olhao – you rarely have to walk further than a couple of hundred metres to find one.
Shops:
Between the Mercado on the waterfront, and the Avenida da Republica, you’ll find a quaint pedestrianised area, full of boutique shops, bars and cafes, as well as gift shops, and even a shop specialising in products made of cork.
It’s worth a walk around.
In fact, there are small shops throughout Olhao. They’re not always easy to find, but they are there.
For DIY products, try ETS on Rua da Coserveira (the road across from the ferry jetty) – a little expensive, but very handy if you need something quickly. Great for key cutting.
For fishing equipment, try Sulcampo on the Av. de 5 Outubro, the waterfront.
To get your shoes fixed, try the cobbler opposite the Câmara (see below).
The list goes on.
But if you prefer more of a shopping centre environment, then head up to the Algarve Outlet on the EN125. There you’ll find Jumbo (a supermarket selling virtually everything), a Sports store, various phone and Internet outlets (Vodafone, NOS, MEO), as well as a few other shops and eating establishments.
There’s also a private clinic, which can be handy!
Algarve Outlet
Opening hours: 10am–11pm
Address: Estrada Nacional 125, 8700-136 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 244 170
Website: Algarve Outlet
The Câmara
The Câmara (basically the governing body for the local area) is a busy place. This is where you go to register for residency, which in turn provides access to healthcare, schools and social security. You can also apply for a licence re changes to your property (ie planning permission), and ask questions about local issues.
Câmara Municipal de Olhão
Opening hours: 9am-4pm weekdays
Address: Largo Sebastião Martins Mte., 8700-349 Olhão, Portugal
Website: cm-olhao.pt
Police
The police stations can be found on the waterfront.
Head west from the Mercado, and you’ll find the police station on the right-hand side of the road, just before the Delmar Marina.
PSP – Esquadra de Olhão
Address: Av. 5 de Outubro 178, 8700-304 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 710 770
Hospital
The main hospital in Olhao is the Centro de Saúde Olhão, which you will find up behind Jumbo.
If you are moving to Portugal and have become a resident, you will need to come here to register for your ‘Utente’ number. Once you have this, you can receive medical care from the public health care system. And I’ll warn you, that was an experience!
There is also a private option, the Clínica Internacional de Olhão, based on the top floor of the Algarve Outlet. That was an experience too! Mainly a good one though. I went there for my driving licence medical. Quick and efficient, but not cheap.
For more major requirements, there is the main public hospital in Faro (University Hospital Centre of Algarve, Faro) and a private hospital in Gambelas (Algarve Private Hospital – HPA Health Group). I’ll give more details when writing about Faro, but I will say that, having been to the private hospital with a friend, I wouldn’t want to go there if I didn’t have the relevant insurance.
Olhão Health Center – Centro de Saúde Olhão
Address: R. de Antero Nobre, 8700-240 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 700 260
Website: Centro de Saude
Clínica Internacional de Olhão
Opening hours: 8am–10pm daily
Address: EN 125 nº 100 Algarve Outlet, lojas 2.02 a 2.05, 8700-137 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 247 222
Website: International Clinic of Olhao
Dentist
I haven’t had to use a dentist in Olhao, but I’ve heard good things about Lobo Monteiro Clinic.
Lobo Monteiro Clinic
Opening hours: 09:00 – 13:00, 15:00 – 20:00 Weekdays, 9am-1pn Saturdays
Address: Avenida da República, nº 21 8700-310 Olhão
Phone: +351 926 497 310
Website: Lobo Monteiro Clinic
Pharmacy
There are several pharmacies in Olhao. The ones I’ve used are Farmacia Progresso and Farmácia Olhanense.
The Farmacia Progresso is on the waterfront, near to the Police station. They spoke English and were very helpful.
The Farmácia Olhanense is a 5-10 minute walk from the Mercado, following a road off the Avenida da Republica. I didn’t deal with anyone who spoke English, but with a few hand signals and my very basic Portuguese, I made myself understood, and the lady was really helpful and friendly.
Farmacia Progresso
Opening hours: 9am–1:30pm, 2:30–7pm weekdays, 9am–1pm Saturday
Address: Av. 5 de Outubro 174C, 8700-304 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 705 329
Website: Farmacia Progresso
Farmácia Olhanense
Opening hours: 8:30am–7:30pm weekdays
Address: R. Cap. Nobre 11C, 8700-568 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 703 114
Bank
There are banks aplenty in Olhao.
The easiest one to find is the Credito Agricola branch, on the Av de 5 Outubro, just down from the Mercado towards the ferries, across the road.
I’ve listed a number of banks, (nearest to the ferries first).
CA Credito Agricola
Address: R. Dr. Francisco Fernandes Lopes 26, 8700-470 Olhão, Portugal
Western Union
Opening hours: 9am–1pm, 2:30–7pm, closed Sunday
Address: Praça Patrão Joaquim Lopes 30, 8700-412 Olhão, Portugal
Website: Western Union
Banco BPI
Opening hours: 8:30am–3pm weekdays
Address: Praça da Restauração 13, 8700-350 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 710 680
Website: Banco BPI
Banco CTT
Opening hours: 9am-6pm weekdays
Address: Av. da República Nº17, 8700-999 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 707 288 282
Website: Banco CTT
Novo Banco
Opening hours: 8:30am-3pm weekdays
Address: Av. da República 44, 8700-310 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 713 128
Website: Novo Banco
Millennium BCP
Opening hours: 8:30am-3:30pm weekdays
Address: Av. da República 180 A, 8700-310 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 006 740
Website: Millennium BCP
ATMs
You’ll find an ATM at the Mercado, available even after the Mercado has closed.
Other than that, your best bet is one of the banks listed above
Post Office (CTT)
You’ll find the Post Office on the Avenida da Republica – it’s at the same location as the Banco CTT above.
CTT
Opening hours: 9am-6pm weekdays
Address: Av. da República Nº17, 8700-999 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 707 314
Website: CTT
Launderette
There are a couple of launderettes available in Olhao. I haven’t used them, but they look clean and seem to be well-used.
Lavisek Launderette
Opening hours: 8am–10pm every day
Address: R. 18 de Junho 111, 8700-422 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 910 080 622
Lavaaki Launderette
Opening hours: 8am–10pm every day
Address: R. Gil Eanes, 8700-461 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 917 846 337
Website: Lavaaki Launderette
Tourist Information
The Tourist Information Office is situated opposite the Câmara. The lady there was very friendly when I went in and happy to help.
Olhao Tourist Office – Posto de Turismo de Olhão
Address: Tv. da Lagoa, 8700-548 Olhão, Portugal
Phone: +351 289 713 936
Website: Olhao Tourist Office
Petrol Station
There are plenty of petrol stations along the EN125, but the best-priced petrol station that I’ve found to date is at the Intermarché.
Intermarché
Opening hours: Open 24/7
Address: R. Calouste Gulbenkian 18-19, 8700-372 Olhão, Portugal
Public toilets
There are public toilets at the Mercado on the waterfront – a set of toilets can be found in each building. They are well-maintained and open until late.
Obviously, if caught short elsewhere, all restaurants and bars will have toilet facilities, but please buy something (even if it’s just a beer) before asking to use them.
Exercise Area
There is an exercise area opposite the Real Marina Hotel and Spa on the waterfront.
It’s not great, but it seems to get a fair bit of use.
The waterfront is also popular with joggers. It’s just under a mile long and flat, with the waters of the Ria Formosa on one side, and the gardens – the Jardim Patrão Joaquim Lopes and the Jardim Pescador Olhanense – on the other for much of its length. It also runs past the Mercado.
Playground
Between the Mercado and the Ferry Terminal, there is a playground for young children. You’ll often see youngsters here, late into the evening, with parents standing around and chatting.
There’s also another one down towards the Marina by the Real Marina Hotel.