Introduction
So, now we come to Tavira.
I think it’s going to be interesting writing about this town!
I’ll explain why:
The other day, a friend said to me that he really didn’t like Tavira at all. Too busy, too touristy, not local enough for his liking.
Then another friend piped up and said that he loved the place! That he really enjoyed the vibe there.
An interesting dichotomy!
So what do I think?
Well, I can understand both points of view if I’m honest.
As I’ve said elsewhere, Blinking Flamingos is my way of getting to know the Eastern Algarve better. To date, I’ve written about the towns on the Eastern Algarve that I’ve lived in, places where I’ve spent a lot of time – Olhao and Fuseta.
Now I’m moving further afield. I’m writing about a town that I’ve visited often, but never really known well – Tavira.
If I’m being honest; the first time I went to Tavira I couldn’t stand it!
It was August. It was high season. The town was heaving, full of tourists. It was pretty enough, but even so, I thought to myself:
‘This isn’t what I want. This isn’t why I came to the Eastern Algarve – I came here to get away from busy places!’
Maybe feeling like this was wrong, unrealistic, but having been once, I really didn’t fancy going back to see Tavira again.
Shortly after my initial visit, I started walking, walking to keep fit as much as anything.
On one of my early walks, I caught the train to Porta Nova (in Tavira), intending to walk back to Fuseta. The route led through the centre of the town.
I wandered down the hill, intending to spend as little time there as possible, hoping to make for Santa Luzia as soon as I could.
But then, as I headed into the town, I came across the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda ou de São Paulo (one of the many churches I’ve since found in Tavira), the Largo da Alagoa (an oasis of greenery surrounded by restaurants and shops), the Ponte Antiga Sobre o Rio Gilao (better known as the Ponte Romana, or the Roman Bridge).
I was taken aback.
I was really enjoying myself as I walked around!
And the reason? The place was empty! There were a few locals around, but I was virtually on my own! It wasn’t busy at all. It was bliss, and I could begin to see what a wonderful place it really was.
So I decided to hang around Tavira for a while that day, stroll through its streets, wander past its churches, climb the steps to the Castle, stroll along the banks of the Gilao, under and over the various bridges.
I found myself loving it!
I’ve been told that I can be quite stubborn, but I’m the first to admit that on this occasion, I’d got things wrong.
The difference that two months had made was immeasurable. I now saw that Tavira had so much to offer and I was beginning to understand why people love it so much.
I have been back many times since, for a drink, for a meal, or simply to wander around this picturesque little town – but generally not in the middle of summer!
I love the narrow alleyways around the castle, the openness of the Praca da Republica (where the town often holds events), the Gilao (as it heads away from the town, under the Ponte Dos Descobrimentos, towards the Ilha de Tavira), the area behind the East bank of the Gilao, with its narrow streets, rough and ready bars, and restaurants.
I love the Quatro Aguas area where the Gilao meets the Ria Formosa and heads out into the Atlantic, past the Ilha da Tavira, with its long golden beaches.
Tavira offers so much to both tourists and locals alike and is now one of my favourite places to visit.
In fact, I’d go so far as to say that it’s the heart of the Eastern Algarve!
Tavira – a place of opposites
Tavira isn’t a big place, but it’s a place of opposites:
Local people live their lives alongside visiting tourists
Modern life runs alongside centuries of history
Ruined buildings sit next to stunning architecture
The centre of the town is flat(ish!), the surrounding areas sit on steep inclines
The Ilha da Tavira has its beaches, Tavira has its river
Most strikingly, the city is split in two by that very river – the Gilao River – with its numerous bridges providing crossing points for trains, cars and pedestrians seems to have two separate halves.
The west side of the river seems, to me at least, to be more affluent, with the Praca da Republica (the main square) the heart of the area, the Camara, the Tourist office, the Islamic Museum, the Castle, the Jardim Publico de Tavira (a picturesque garden area) sitting along the bank of the river, the Mercado da Ribeira (the old market building) positioned just below the Jardim Publico de Tavira.
The east side seems slightly more neglected. It has wonderful areas where you can sit and relax, such as on the banks of the river outside the Black Anchor pub, or in the Jardim da Alagoa.
But step away from the river and head south from the Ponte Romana (the Roman Bridge), and the houses seem smaller and more cramped. A number of them are no more than ruins. The bars in this area seem more world-weary, full of locals enjoying the cheaper establishments. Having said that, this is probably my favourite area of Tavira. You’ll find wonderful restaurants, the odd Art Gallery, and the real Tavira – as far as I’m concerned anyway.
So the two sides of the river offer different things, but there is one constant throughout Tavira: the Churches.
If you like a church, then this is the place for you. Wikipedia tells me that there are 37 of them. I haven’t counted, but it wouldn’t surprise me. Around every corner, there seems to be another church, some large, some small, some glamorous, some humble.
But what each of these Churches has is a small plaque outside its main entrance, giving you a little insight into its history, as do many of Tavira’s buildings.
I’ve noticed that Tavira is very good a providing its guests with information. I like that.
Map of Tavira
The 7 Best Things to Do in Tavira
Tavira is a marvellous place.
In summer, I find it too busy for my own tastes, but even just a month or so either side of August, and for the rest of the year, you’ll find a town full of interesting things to do and see.
You can wander around its streets for hours, looking at churches and museums, enjoying the hustle and bustle, strolling along the banks of the Gilao, climbing the castle walls.
But there’s much more to Tavira than just the culture, the architecture and the history.
There are also many things for you to do.
Because of the town’s close proximity to Ilha da Tavira and the Ria Formosa, Tavira provides access to one of the best beaches in Europe, and to some of the finest wetlands. It is also close to some of the best golf courses in Europe, if not the world.
You can walk, you can cycle, you can go on a tour. You can play golf, go horse-riding, go shopping. Or if you prefer, you can simply take it easy – catch a ferry to the beach, taste some of the wonderful food available, or just sit at a table with a coffee of a Vinho Verde and watch the world go by.
As I’ve said, Tavira is a place of opposites.
So you can either do something or do nothing. It really is your choice!
The 8 Best Things to See in Tavira
So, Tavira is the heart of the Eastern Algarve, a town of opposites. But it’s also a town full of life and culture.
Dating back to the Bronze Age, it’s had its share of ‘0ccupiers’: the Romans (well, just down the coast anyway), the Phoenicians, and the Moors – until, in 1242, the locals took back the town.
But the Moors certainly left their mark, building the castle, and a couple of mosques, one of which was replaced by the current church of Santa Maria do Castelo in the 13th Century.
In 1755, the great earthquake destroyed many buildings, and much of Tavira had to be rebuilt. Despite this, it retains its share of older structures.
So, there’s plenty to see in Tavira, and plenty of ‘culture’ available to those who enjoy it.
You can walk around the town easily, although it’s hilly in places, and the steps up to the castle are arduous. But it’s great to wander the narrow streets and pretty garden areas, stroll past or into the churches, and relive the history of the town.
So what have I enjoyed?
My 6 Favourite Places to Eat in Tavira
Tavira is full of restaurants, cafés and bars. Everywhere you turn, there’s somewhere to eat or drink.
But I haven’t eaten in all of them. In fact, I haven’t eaten in many of them at all!
Honesty is the game here.
If I’ve eaten somewhere myself, I’ll tell you. If someone has told me about a restaurant, I’ll tell you. As and when I eat in a restaurant in Tavira and think it’s worth mentioning, I’ll tell you.
So now we’ve got that sorted…
Maybe you’re looking for an authentic Portuguese restaurant? You’ll certainly find some of those in Tavira. Or maybe international cuisine? There’s plenty of that too! Indian, Japanese, Italian… there are several options. Or maybe you’re just after some fast food?
Whatever you want, I think you’ll be covered.
My Favourite Places to Drink in Tavira
I thought that I’d try a different writing technique today (ie just be myself!) since I’ve had a couple of beers.
So forgive me, but here it is…
***
Bollocks! It’s raining!
It’s December. I’ve made myself a promise that I will finish writing about Tavira for my blog before the end of the year. So I call my mate and say:
“Monday! Fancy a few beers in Tavira? I want to check out a few bars, see what they’re like. I need to write about them. Are you up for it?”
“Always!” he responds, “but why Monday?”
“It’s my Birthday!”
And so the plan is made.
Monday arrives. I have something to do first, namely, respond to some lovely texts from people I would never expect to hear from, but also, I need to head over to Fuseta and catch up with the builder to see what he’s up to.
So I wake up early – and I hear it – the drumming of rain on the roof terrace…
Bollocks!
Then ‘Ping!’
My phone has a message. It’s my mate.
“Have you seen the forecast?”
“The forecast?” I think to myself, “No! But I’ve seen the bloody weather! Bollocks!”
I text him back.
“I think we need to rearrange…”
And so we do, which is just as well, since today, the rain just doesn’t stop. In fact, it’s like the great flood that Noah foretold! The heaviest rain, thunder, lightning, rivers running through the streets…
It’s not looking good.
In fact, it REALLY isn’t good! I end up spending the day indoors, watching the rain through the window.
But I’m old enough to appreciate that Birthdays don’t matter that much anymore. So I’m not too bothered, apart from the fact that I now have a problem.
I’m heading back to the UK for Christmas. I have no more time to head to Tavira and find the best bars.
So here I am, hamstrung by the weather, but still trying to write about Tavira…
I will have very little subject matter until my friend and I hit the town to find out what’s what.
So right now, I’m left with the bars that I’ve been to. And I can honestly say that’s not a great number.
What I do promise is that I will add to this section as soon as I can.
* if you’ve preferred this writing technique, then maybe check out My Experiences. That’s where I write just as I think…
Anyway… the only bar that I have been to…
Travelling to and from Faro Airport
So, how to get to Tavira?
I think that you’ll find that it’s quick and easy! Depending on which mode of transport you use…
Click here for more information.
Local Facilities
Trains
In Tavira, there are two train stations: Tavira and Porta Nova.
Personally, I tend to use Porta Nova, the more easterly station. It’s a shorter walk down to the town centre (ie the Ponte Romana), and if you want to go, much closer to the Gran-Plaza Shopping Centre.
The train line itself runs all the way along the Algarve, but if we stick to the Eastern Algarve, it runs from Faro in the west to Vila Real de Santo Antonio in the east.
A timetable and the cost of catching the train to each station from Faro in the Eastern Algarve can be found here.
Tickets are cheap anyway, but children (4-12) are half price, as are adults over 65 (ID required).
You can purchase your tickets at the ticket office if it’s open or on the train. The guard will come round to collect your money. It’s cash only and it’s good to have the right money – certainly no big notes.
Taxis
Taxis are an easy way to travel. In Tavira, you can find a taxi rank by the main train station, and also in the Rua Dr Marcelino Franco.
Parking
There is a fair amount of parking in Tavira, some of it free, some of it paid.
There is a free car park next to the Mercado Municipal. There’s also free parking at the Gran-Plaza.
There’s paid parking at Quatro Aguas,
You can often find parking on the streets in Tavira too, but check whether the street you park on is in a pay zone or not.
Personally, I tend to catch a train into Tavira. It’s cheap and less hassle, especially in the summer.
Ferries and Water Taxis
There is a ferry service available to the Ilha da Tavira.
It runs all year round from both Tavira itself and from Quatro Aguas, and tickets are purchased at the kiosk in Tavira on the right-hand side for the Gilao as you look downriver, or onboard the ferry from Quatro Aguas.
The time and cost of the ferry can be found here.
The ferries to the island are run by Silnido:
Contact: turismo@silnido.pt
Tel: + 351 918278934
Opening Hours: Mon-Fri: 09.00-13.00 and 14.00-19.00
Water Taxis can be used as an alternative, and to various destinations as well. Once a water taxi has taken you somewhere, if you want to return by water taxi too, you simply agree a time beforehand and you will be picked up.
Contact details and prices can be found here.
Accommodation
If you’re looking for accommodation in Tavira, you have several choices.
From large hotels to budget hostels, from private apartments to camping, there is something for everyone and for every budget.
Budget
The Pousada de Juventude de Tavira Youth Hostel is located a short walk from the Praca da Republica. It offers double rooms, twin rooms and shared dormitories (gender-specific!). It’s a good cheap option.
Alternatively, the campsite is also a decent cheap option, especially if the beach is the main reason for your stay in Tavira (see below).
Pousada de Juventude de Tavira Youth Hostel
Address: Rua Miguel Bombarda, 36, 8800-419 Tavira, Portugal
Mid-Range
Tavira offers many mid-range properties – private apartments, private houses, B&Bs, Guest Houses. But if you’re looking for somewhere at a reasonable price, in a great location, then Residencial Mares could be the one.
I haven’t stayed there, but I’ve walked past it on many occasions. The location is right on the banks of the Gilao, a couple of minutes walk from all the major sites, and almost on top of where the ferry leaves for Ilha da Tavira. The reviews are pretty good, and the price looks good.
I’d at least give this place a go!
Residencial Marés
Address: Rua Jose Pires Padinha 140, Tavira, 8800-354, Portugal
Superior
The Hotel Vila Galé Tavira, down by the Mercado Municipal, with its 262 rooms, suites, and indoor and outdoor pools is a good option. Close to the centre, but easily accessible Or maybe the Maria Nova Lounge Hotel would suit you. It’s Adults only. Despite being in the north of the city, its 137 rooms have great views across Tavira, down to the saltpans. There’s also a bar on the roof terrace (the Nomad Bar Lounge Terrace), with fantastic views over the city especially at night. The only downside is that it’s on a fairly steep hill if you struggle with that sort of thing.
But for something a little different, why not try the Hotel Pousada Convento da Graça, a former 16th Century Convent, which retains many of the original features, such as the 16th and 17th Century Renaissance cloister and the Baroque-style central staircase. It also offers all the facilities you’d expect: a swimming pool, restaurant etc.
Situated just behind the castle, it’s in a prime location. Staying here means that you really are staying in historical Tavira!
Hotel Vila Galé Tavira
Address: Rua 4 de Outubro, 8800-362 Tavira, Portugal
Maria Nova Lounge Hotel
Rua Professor Egas Moniz, 8800-361 Tavira, Portugal
Hotel Pousada Convento da Graça
Rua D. Paio Peres Correia, 8800-407 Tavira, Portugal
Search on booking.com, or airbnb.com to find your perfect lodgings.
Campsite
If you like to camp, then Ilha da Tavira has a campsite, where you can either bring your own camping gear or rent a tent from the site (probably the easier option). Mosquitoes are a problem, and the showers are coin-operated, so it’s not perfect. But you are just a few steps away from one of the best beaches in Europe. I think it’s what you call ‘swings and roundabouts!
Personally, camping’s not for me. I’d rather stay in a nice bed in the Tavira! But if you like camping, this is the option.
Parque de Campismo da Ilha de Tavira
Address: Ilha de Tavira, Tavira, Portugal
Website: Parque de Campismo da Ilha de Tavira
Fresh Food Market (Mercado Municipal)
On the Avenida Dom Manuel I lies the Mercado Municipal, Tavira’s fresh food market.
It’s open every day (except Sunday), from early morning (between 6:30 and 7:30 depending on the time of year) until 3pm, selling fresh fish, fresh meat, and fresh fruit and veg.
It’s where locals go to buy their food. Well worth a visit!
Street Markets
There are two street markets in Tavira. They’re not overly exciting, but worth a visit.
The Gipsy Market takes place on the 3rd Saturday of the month at the Antigo Campo da Feira. This is on the road out of Tavira towards the Gran-Plaza Shopping Centre.
The Flea Market takes place on the 1st Saturday of the month, alongside the Mercado Municipal.
Supermarkets
Tavira has a number of supermarkets, both big and small.
I’ll just give you the major ones here.
Continente
Just head for the Gran-Plaza Shopping Centre
Opening Hours: 8:30am–12am
Address: R. Alm. Cândido dos Reis 247, 8800-318 Tavira, Portugal
Pingo Doce
Across the bridge from the Mercado Municipal, you’ll see it on the left-hand side
Opening Hours: 8:30am–9pm
Address: R. Silva Domingues, 8800-713 Tavira, Portugal
Aldi
You’ll find it on the way out of town up near the EN125. Not that handy if you’re staying in the centre
Opening Hours: 8am–9pm
Address: Sítio de São Pedro, Santiago, 8800-255, Portugal
Lidl
Right next to Tavira train station
Opening Hours: 8am–10pm
Address: Armazém Quimigal, Largo de Santo Amaro, 8800-703 Tavira, Portugal
Shops
From the mainstream shops at the Gran-Plaza Shopping Centre, to the fresh food markets, to the craft shops and gift shops within the town: there is something for everybody in Tavira.
Just take a walk around, pop into the shops that take your fancy.
You’ll find some interesting things!
Police
PSP
The PSP was formed in 1867 to safeguard internal security and the rights of Portuguese citizens as per the constitution and laws of Portugal. Its duties include diplomatic protection, the security of major events, traffic policing, private security and firearms licensing, crime prevention, investigation of crime, airport security and protection of persons and property. It is mainly responsible for the policing of the larger cities.
Opening Hours: 24/7
Address: Atalaia Street, 2, 8800-378 Tavira
Phone: +351 281 322 022
GNR
The GNR, created in 1911, is a paramilitary security force organised into a Special Corps of Troops. It exists to maintain public order, covering all areas of the country except for the larger cities which come under the jurisdiction of the PSP.
Address: 5 Calçada de Santana, 8800-309 Tavira
Phone: +351 281 325 704
For emergencies, call 112.
Hospital
The ‘Centro de Saude’ can be found on the road to Santa Luzia.
Opening Hours: Weekdays – 8am–8pm; Saturday – 9am–6pm; Sunday – 9 am–5pm
Address: Santa Luzia Road, 8800-534 Santiago Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 281 329 000
For emergencies, call 112.
Dentist
I have had no experience of dentists in Tavira, but one with good reviews and which is easy to find (like the ‘Centro de Saude’, it’s on the road to Santa Luzia) is the Fusion Dental Clinic
Opening Hours: Weekdays – 9:30am–1pm, 2:30–7pm
Address: Travessa Ingmar Bergman, 8800-744 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 281 323 852
Pharmacy
There are several Pharmacies around. I’ve simply picked one due to its close proximity to the Praca da Republica and the Ponte Romana.
Félix Franco Pharmacy (Tavira)
Opening Hours: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm (lunch 1pm-3pm), Fri 9am-6pm (lunch Midday-2pm), Sat 10am-6pm (lunch 1pm-2pm)
Address: Alexandre Herculano 24, 8800-394 TAVIRA
Phone: +351 281 322 162
Bank
Concentrating on the area around the Praca de Republica and the Ponte Romana, you’ll find the following banks:
Crédito Agrícola
Opening Hours: Weekdays 8:30am–3:30pm
Address: R. Borda d’Água Aguiar 3A, 8800-318 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 281 320 620
Millennium bcp
Opening Hours: Weekdays 8:30am–3:30pm
Address: R. da Liberdade 8, 8800-399 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 281 001 020
Banco BPI
Opening Hours: Weekdays 8:30am–3pm
Address: R. Dr. Silvestre Falcão 11 A, 8800-412 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 281 380 210
Novo Banco
Opening Hours: Weekdays 8:30am–3pm
Address: R. Dr. Marcelino Franco 38, 8800-669 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 281 241 380
Banco CTT
Opening Hours: Weekdays 9am-6pm
Address: R. da Liberdade S/N, 8800-999 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 707 288 282
ATMs
There are a number of ATMs in Tavira.
You’ll find an ATM at each of the banks listed above. You’ll also find one each side of the Praca da Republica, one by the Ponte Romana, and one a little further up Rua da Liberdade.
Post Office (CTT)
The Post Office (CTT) can be found on the Rua da Liberdade.
Opening Hours: Weekdays 9am–6pm.
Address: R. da Liberdade 999, 8800-399 Tavira, Portugal
Launderette
The Lavandaria, self-service launderette, can be found in a prime location! Right on the waterfront, not far from where the ferry leaves for the Ilha da Tavira
Lave & Leve
Opening Hours: 7am–12am every day
Address: Largo Dr. José Pires Padinha 168, 8800-367 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 918 877 557
Tourist Information
The Tourist Information Office is situated on the Praca da Republica, not far from the Ponte Romans.
Tavira Tourist Office
Opening Hours: Weekdays – 9am–5pm; Weekends – 9:30am–1pm, 2–5pm
Address: Praça da República 5, 8800-951 Tavira, Portugal
Phone: +351 281 322 511
Petrol Station
There are several petrol stations around Tavira.
There’s one at the Gran-Plaza Shopping Centre, or a couple on the way up to it from the town.
You’ll also find petrol stations up on the 125 – there’s plenty of options!
Public toilets
You’re looking for a public toilet? You have the following options:
Mercado da Ribeira (the old market building)
Mercado Municipal (the new market building)
O Castelo (the Castle)
On the Ilha da Tavira
The toilets in the castle and on the island aren’t great, but sometimes you can’t be choosey!
All bars and restaurants have toilets, but please only use these if you are patronising the premises (ie buy something, be it a meal, a drink or whatever). Bar and restaurant owners are trying to make a living.